Tuesday, 12 August 2014

Finding our Niche

The last few months have gone by in somewhat of a blur. A chaotic work schedule and my mixed success rate on the online dating scene meant that by mid-June: 1. I never made it to the Robert Louis Stevenson Way in the Cevennes at Easter (see previous post) and 2. I was left with a return ferry ticket and a week’s gite reservation in the SW France and no one to go with.

As usual, in these difficult situations, your friends step up and though he was loathed to leave the manic, Metro and manifestations of Paris for even a day, Dan (see many Paris posts) gamely sacrificed himself for a blokes’ road trip.

Having only passed my driving test at the end of March, it seemed somewhat of baptism of fire taking on a 550-mile run from Le Havre to Gimbrede in the Gers region.  This apprehension could have been compounded by a virtually sleepless night on the ferry but once I’d slipped back behind the wheel and rolled back onto terra firma, genuine excitement kicked in and I was soon speeding (to coin a phrase Mum!) along the immaculate autoroute toward Paris.

The reason why French roads are so good is because the money from the tolls (peages) is ploughed straight back into road improvement. That being the case, the A13 between Normandy and Paris was the best-kept motorway anywhere! 5 (FIVE!) peages in less than two hours and almost €20 Euros later, I rolled up to the RER (suburban railway) station in Poissy to pick up my friend and traveling companion.

Having basically been on the go for 12+ hours, I was happy to let Dan take the first stretch and after keying ‘Gimbrede’ into the sat nav. (more on that later) we were soon out of the capital’s gravitational pull and rolling south to the sounds of Fleetwood Mac (some music is just made for the road!). The road trip had begun in earnest. Two mates, shooting the breeze and clocking up the miles, this was more like it!

Une petite pause culturelle:

It’s a cliché and an inaccurate one at that, to say that French food is better than British. However, one area where those pesky stereotypers may have a point is motorway munchies. A crunchy, seeded baguette filled with slabs of rare roast beef, with crisp salad and a creamy horseradish relish, followed by a moist, tart blackcurrant pastry and a drink, for less than €10 or a Big Mac? Hmmm!

French is a remarkably descriptive language. Take the term ‘traffic jam’ for instance, a jam made of traffic, makes no sense, does it? Well, now take the French word for it ‘un bouchon’ or ‘a cork’; stopping up the road, not letting anything through, yep, I can see that. Well, whatever the word, just short of Orleans, we got stuck in an almighty one.

Not being in much of a hurry, went with the flow – or lack of it – crawling along at roughly 2 miles an hour, chewing the cud and humming along to ‘Don’t stop’. All joviality faded into front-staring silence when, after an hour, the recovery vehicle, carrying the burnt out wreck of a German-plated people carrier (replete with roof box no doubt laden with holiday luggage), trundled past along the hard shoulder. It just didn’t bear thinking about...

The mood lightened somewhat as we hit the A20 and the sat nav. registered 245 miles before our next change of road – this meant the turning up into the Gers and our destination, our much needed holiday, was in sight. As the miles ticked down though, we started to notice something odd. The arrival time on the sat nav. couldn’t possibly be right. It wasn’t going to take three hours to get from Montauban to Gimbrede, was it?

Indeed it wasn’t! Now, Dan, who was driving, had not been down this way before and therefore, was trusting Sat-nav. Susan (or whatever her name was). I, despite having done this road a lot with my folks, was too lost in scenery changes, conversation and lack of sleep to notice when Susan took us off the A20 at Brive and directed us west. By the time it had dawned on me, we were already 50-odd miles off route without a clue where we were headed.

A brief stop to check the road map (always have one of these handy) revealed that Susan, intent on showing us the beautiful towns and countryside of the Limousin and Dordogne, was planning on  taking us along the A89, off the motorway at junction 15 to then meander down the French equivalent of an A road to Bergerac and then on another to Agen. We were too far off route to head back to the A20 now, so off we went. “Ah!” I said to Dan as we pulled out of the service station, “Didn’t that big sign there just say that junction15 was closed due to the Tour de France?”

Sure enough, said exit was a mass of cones and road barriers, no going down there then. Susan quickly recalibrated and told us to come off two junctions later onto the D709 to Bergerac (please note that the longer the number, the smaller the road!). Off at 13 then…"12 miles to Bergerac" says Susan…"Road closed in 12 km, due to Tour de France" says road sign. Aargh! I’ve never been a big fan of cycling, but this was taking the Michel!

A quirk of French minor road signage is that they’re turned in a way so that you can only see them coming from one direction. If you’re coming the other way and at speed, hard mimolet! Hence we never saw the deviation notice until we’d steamed past it. Finding a place to turn, we found it partially blocked by a load of cycling support vehicles. I wound my window down... However, now was not the time to practice my French invectives, so it was back to the deviation.

By now, we were not the only ones who were lost. Susan had obviously not been programmed with Le Grande Boucle’s race calendar and so, as soon as we turned off the D709, she tried every way possible to get us back on it (this was made only partially amusing by the fact she couldn’t pronounce any of the road names). The combination of constantly recalculating sat nav. woman and deviation signs appearing out of nowhere and often behind us, almost led to the end of our trip.

Trying to ignore Susan and follow the deviations to Bergerac - is it me or do sat nav. voiceovers become more irritable the more you ignore them? - we soon found ourselves on roads barely wide enough for the car, with forest blocking views on either side. I was driving: tired, irritated and lost in dreaming up an anti-Tour Facebook page, when Dan said "Stop". Not being with it, I didn’t hear him, so he said it again, a bit louder, "Luke, stop". Still nothing. I’d seen the deviation sign up ahead, so was going to bloody well follow it... "STOP!!!!" Dan yelled, just before I crossed the junction into the path of a speeding black 4x4…

Screeching breaks, minor heart palpitations and quite a few “Sorry I almost got us killed” (s) later, we crawled off again and finally, we made it into Bergerac. Meandering our way through the town, we came to the river Dordogne, where, in the shallows, several renovated sailing barges sat wallowing gracefully in the early evening light. We were momentarily spellbound and despite recent near-death experiences, still having 70-odd miles to go and being at least and hour behind time, the sight seemed to infuse us both with a sense of calm.

Compared to previous stretches, the route into Agen was without incident until, once again, I noticed discrepancies between road map and sat nav. Susan. We were still in town and she was telling us we had barely 5 minutes to go. We knew our gite was in the middle of nowhere and this was certainly not that! Surely we needed to cross the Garonne and not head into the outskirts of Agen town.

Another stop, another road map consultation and the realisation that there was a suburb of Agen called ‘Gimbrede’. We had already phoned ahead to our hosts, Sally and Ian, who had agreed to put back their evening meal for us and now they were going to have to do so again. This was starting to become embarrassing!

Leaving the main road after Agen though, much of what had happened before was forgotten. The combination of light and landscape in this part of the world is unlike any place I’ve ever been – I’ve written about this before – and an awed silence fell on the car. “Do you feel like you’re away from Paris now buddy?” In response, a gentle nod.

The ever-narrowing roads now began to take on the names of the houses and homes that stood off them. Susan did her best with the pronunciation, but by the time we approached our destination, tears of laughter were rolling down our faces. Our favourite was definitely: “Loo Dit Gain dee Rozzas”, your guess is as good as mine!

The little hamlet of Gimbrede, total population 150, was a welcome sight. There was still time to over shoot the gravel drive leading up to the gite but after some 24 hrs on the road (since I’d left London the evening before) we crunched through the gate to be greeted by a bouncing Harris (Sally and Ian’s hungarian pointer) and the most welcome words ever spoken to a weary traveller: “There’s a cold beer in the fridge.”!


Before joining our hosts for dinner, we took a quick pause on the patio out the back of the Niche, the little stone cottage that was to be our base for the next six days. It was surrounded by a two-foot high lavender hedge, rolling fields of sunflowers spread into the distance and little copses of trees dotted the hills up to a little fortified village, in which the lights had just started to blink on. The only noise we could hear was the thrumming of bees as they moved from lavender flower to lavender flower. I turned to Dan and proffered my half-empty can, “Happy holidays, my friend.” He let out a long, contented sigh and clunked his beer against mine. “Happy holidays indeed!”

Note: Here's a link to a French road map, to orientate yourself with the various roads and regions from this post:

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